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Issue 5

Tuesday night of our fifth week of the summer session at Swarnabhoomi. This is a special week, because it is camp week. We have 25 students added to our group, who are here for 5 days of learning. We have a special schedule, offering different courses for the camp week for all of the students.

We started the week with a faculty introduction and performance. It was really fun to sing with the three fantastic musicians who are also faculty here: Ed Deganero (guitar), Steve Zerlin (bass) and Phil Maturano (drums). We played some standards, and the three ended the program with an amazing rock tune. Each of us is giving courses of our specialties. In the afternoon on Monday we all talked about “groove” and the basic concepts in various popular grooves. This was not only really educational for the students, but also for me! Some of the information told by the other players was very insightful to me, especially from Prapancham Ravindram, our Konnokol drumming teacher.

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I was able to lead a 2 hour acappella workshop today, which was really fun. We sang Vela Vela, a South African song, and a doowop song – Speedoo; they did well in learning the parts in a short time. We also had a very nice vocal lab with 10 singers in the group! Tomorrow brings Carnatic singing lessons, lesson in 6/8 South American grooves from Phil, recording lessons from Ed and the week is full of interesting courses and ensembles. We will likely have a performance of some of the music learned this week on Thursday or Friday. Last week we had a performance evening of the 6 ensembles who worked together the first 4 weeks. Each of the 6 groups played one or two pieces up on the terrace on the second floor of the building. It was fun to hear the music in the somewhat cooler evening, and to share what each group had learned. My group did Tumba (West Africa), Mas Que Nada (Brazil), and Somebody to Love (Jefferson Airplane). This has been another exciting travel week for me as well! Last Saturday I had a fun day going with 6 men from SAM to Pondicherry, where we walked around and enjoyed drinks and a great buffet meal at a very nice hotel. It was really a relaxing day, and fun to go south again , doing some shopping in Auroville as well. This past weekend, I ventured out even further and flew to Goa! I am taking advantage of my time here, trying to see as much as possible. I first wanted to visit the Taj Majal, but after hearing from students that it is dirty, crowded and lots of hype, I was beginning to think otherwise, and when I saw that it is about 113 degrees F. at this time, I thought I may not enjoy it much, for all of the trouble and time it would take to get there. So I chose Goa as a good place to see. I was interested in the Portuguese influence, and knew of it form several Dutch friends who have visited there.

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I understand now why so many people choose Goa as an Indian destination. It is beautiful! Cooler than Tamil Nadu, it’s lush greenery reminded me of Hawaii. The buildings often looked Portuguese, with tiles and iron balconies, and many, many big Catholic churches, dating back centuries when the Portuguese first colonized the area. It was only the 1960’s that they left, so the history is quite new! I even ate at a Portuguese restaurant, and had fish croquettes (but they weren’t as good as at that Portuguese restaurant that used to be on the Haarlemmerstraat in Amsterdam). Other delightful food I had there were the garlic cheese naan, Goan sausage, delicious “chonock” (sea bass), fried in a rice paneer called rawa – that’s how Goans like their seafood prepared. I stayed in a 5 star hotel, so I spoiled myself, and really loved the room and the pool, and the great service.

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I spent Saturday sightseeing – Old Goa is full of huge cathedrals and old churches, got to visit a beautiful Hindi temple, and went to a very interesting Spice Farm – where I had a typical Goan lunch – Xacuti – a chicken dish cooked in coconut milk and other spices, very nice! They also have a wine made from cashew nuts called feni. BUT! The highlight was probably riding on an elephant! His name was Bapu (I guess all male elephants are Bapu and females are Lakshmi). He was lovely – covered in an orange tarp, and I climbed on him from a high place along the hill, and rode with the young driver, who tickled him behind the ears with his toes, had a little switch with which he’d tap the head of Bapu, and he would also sing a little song to Bapu as we rode along! I loved the feeling of it – we didn’t go fast, but it was great fun! I think Bapu is a farm elephant, so it felt even more special. His wife and daughter were apparently up in the jungle feeding.

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On Sunday I ventured out to the beach using a drop off cab – and got my feet wet on the western shore of India (oAt the beachn the Arabian Sea). Then I got a ride home in a “tuk-tuk” or an auto rickshaw – which are 3 wheeled bikes covered with a place for 2 people behind the driver – of course these tuk-tuks sometimes carry about 11 people! I paid about 80 cents for the ride! I was excited to venture out from the hotel and organize my own tuk-tuk ride home.

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The flight back went well – they have one line at security for men, one for women – I don’t know which went faster, but I got home safe and sound. I was very happy I got to see quite another look at part of India. It is truly beautiful over there! I guess many Russians go to Goa. I met 3 in the airport, but otherwise saw very few other foreigners around the city. I also got my hair colored. It took the manager of the hotel a long time to find a salon that had coloring light enough for my hair – they only have shades of black in most salons! And my new color is also quite a dark auburn! But it was another adventure going to an Indian salon! Three more weeks of Indian exploration and working with these great students and colleagues. I have met so many fine friends here, I am humbled by their warmth and graciousness. — Peggy

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