It’s hard to believe that five weeks have already passed at SAM, and we only have two left! This last week was a refreshing change from our regular classes. Each teacher gave courses in their own specialties and passions, resulting in a very informative and inspiring course week for the students. Steve Zerlin even added an extra class on harmony on Friday afternoon and lectured for nearly four hours, with very enthusiastic students.
On Wednesday we had a wonderful concert from our Carnatic singing teacher, Sreyas Narayanum. I have been following his classes and attempting to sing the exercises in the basics of this amazing discipline, but his performance showed skills I couldn’t even dream of! He sings so masterfully and also so warm and expressively, all the time sailing around the scales with precision and ease. He was accompanied by a young violinist who can play right along with him, or shadow Sreyas’ improvisation lines. He was also accompanied by a percussionist who was amazing and will be working at SAM in the fall. For the last two pieces Phil Maturano joined them and we had a trading of drum solos – western and eastern, which was really fun and interesting. It was nearly a two-hour concert, in which I was trying to keep up with the hand movements of the “tala”, which most Indian audiences do as the musicians sing the ragas and improvise. Thursday was a very long day. We three American faculty went to the US Embassy in Chennai to get copies of our drivers’ licenses notarized in order to open Indian bank accounts. The drive to Chennai is 2 hours, but driving in Chennai is really a bothersome thing -- it is so busy and so many small streets to get through (although Koti, our driver does an amazing job). Once at the embassy, we were frustrated by the inefficiency of their systems, such as not allowing you to bring in any wallets, keys, phones, but then having no lockers to put them in while you are in the embassy. When he went for his US visa, one of my SAM colleagues handed his phone and keys to a person on the street –- and later had to go to that persons’ work to collect them! He didn’t know that person at all, but was lucky to get everything back. We had our colleagues from SAM to take care of our things, and later to give us $150 to pay for the notarization! Which is free in any bank in the USA. After a very long trip, stopping at a supermarket to get some food, we got back just in time for me to lead a workshop in Brazilian singing – we did “Baracao” with vocal percussion of the Batucada rhythms which we managed to learn in one hour, and with great enthusiasm of the students! They really got a kick out of the rhythms, and picked it up quickly! Afterwards one student showed me a sample of a similar drumming tradition in India: with surdo–like drums and long circular trumpets. I gave lots of private lessons on Friday, which were fun. The students really have been improving their range or breath control or tone with a few tips on expanding rib cages, aiming for those higher pitches, and realizing that they CAN hit them, and changing their mouth positions! The students have been attentive and quick learners. My friends Mukund and Selva took Mudit and me over to the mango farm just next to the Marg Swarnabhoomi complex. It borders the area, and has many acres of mango trees and other fruit trees. It had a lovely farmstead, with beautiful orchards. The mango season is almost over and the last mangos are called “malagoas” in Tamil, and are really sweet and delicious –- a little smaller than regular mangos, but so tasty! Mangos have become my breakfast now – tea, mangos or dates and maybe an oat cookie. Perfect. I also plucked some limes off the tree, saw curry plants, and the huge circles of chilies drying in front of the farm buildings.
After the long trip Thursday, I had no desire to return to Chennai this weekend. I had hoped to ride on Selva’s motorbike to the next town, but he had to stay at SAM, so I got a more chic ride in the SAM car to the village where I picked up clothing which I had made (for about $12) –- two shirts for Rocky and a whole Indian outfit for me. I commissioned several more pieces – this time a silk shirt for Rocky (at the men’s tailor) and several pieces for me (at the women’s). I hope to remember to take a photo of the shops next time! They measure me carefully, and I brought one of Rocky’s shirts for a sample for his clothes. They do an amazing job.
After the tailors, a trip to another textile shop – the cottons here are so great, I can’t resist! Then to a toy store to buy a cricket bat for my grand- nephew. Now I will have to find out the rules to the game! Koti and I had a nice lunch of birijani -- that is delicious here. After returning from Kalpakkum, I was going down to pick up my freshly laundered and pressed clothes when I met one of our students who said “We are going to Pondicherry, you should come!” So I no sooner returned from Kalpakkum (north of SAM) but I was on the road south to Pondicherry for more shopping and another buffet at the great Promenade Hotel. It was fun again, and too filling! We also stopped for a bottle of wine -- the liquor is much cheaper in Pondicherry as it is a separate province with it’s own laws and taxes. Wine and beer are quite expensive here compared to everything else. AND! Most importantly! I was awoken by Rocky at 2 AM so he could inform me that back on Lincoln Avenue we WON an ALLEY GARDEN AWARD!! Yes, when I’m away, Rocky secures us this coveted award (having major landscaping done last year helped, I am sure)! But I could hardly sleep again for the joy of it!
So today (Sunday) is a relaxing day for me –- unless I get invited to go somewhere! I’m taking advantage of all of the wonderful hospitality and adventures that are set before me. Till next week! — Peggy
